Find my pattern for fingerless mittens here:

http://www.marthas-world.com/?p=67

Fingerless Mittens ‘Selena’

– simple version – for the full version go to the link above –

***this pattern has been tested – if you will have a question or comment, please feel free to contact me (find the e-mail address on the main page) – Thank you!

*Please read complete pattern before you start crocheting 

Hook #4

yarn weight DK

Size: Average female hand

Terminology used – US
CH = Chain
SC = Single Crochet
DC = Double Crochet
SlSt = Slip Stitch
HDC = Half Double Crochet
SC-BLO – Single Crochet in Back Loop Only
Special terms in this pattern
‘Shell’,  ‘NDC Shell’= Indicated number (N) of DCs crocheted in the same stitch
‘Cluster’ = skip 2, SC, skip 2, 5DC Shell

Notes:
1. The Wrist part is crocheted in rows, the Main part in rounds.
2. At the beginning of each row of the Main part CH3 replaces one DC.
3. In all clusters – except the few made in the thumb part – SC is made in the TOP of the 5DC shell of the previous row, and 5DC shell in the SC made in the previous row.
4. The top of the 5DC shell is in (top of) the third DC.
5. The last stitch in most rows is Slip Stitch, for shells it is made in the space of the CH3, NOT in the top of the first DC!

The Wrist Part

Chain 15 (14 + 1)
*Depending on the desired length of the wrist part, change this  number

Row 1: crochet 14 SC-BLO, CH1, turn

Rows 2-28: Repeat Row 1
*Try the Wrist part, it should sit comfortably around your wrist, and you have to be able to pull the hand through. Add any even number of rows (2, 4 …) if needed.

Crochet the total of 28 rows of SC-BLO. 28 rows will make 14 ridges.

Fold the crocheted piece in half to connect two shorter sides together, SlSt through the 1st loop of the longer side, SlSt through both loops of all stitches in the last and the 1st row together.

Connecting Wrist part with Slip Stitch
with PURPLE yarn for the pattern purpose only 🙂

Turn the Wrist part inside out, and continue to the Main part.

The Main Part

*In the Row Zero of the Main part we will crochet 2 SCs per ridge made in the Wrist part. The number of SCs in this row has to be dividable by 6, because Shell Clusters take 6 stitches (30 stitches make 5 clusters). To obtain the needed number, add few stitches evenly throughout the Row Zero (if needed)

Row Zero
CH 1, SC around, SlSt to the first CH (30)
*count the stitches!

Row 1
CH 1, skip 2, 5DC Shell, 4 Clusters, join with a SlSt to the first CH.
*Reminder: ‘Cluster’ = skip 2, SC, skip 2, 5DC Shell

Row 2
CH3, 2DC in the same stitch – this is the first half of 5DC shell. 4 Clusters, skip 2, SC, skip 2, 2DC in the very first stitch where you made the first 2DC – SlSt in the space of CH3 (not in the top of the DC!), this is the second part of 5DC shell.

Row 3
Repeat Row 1

Row 4
Repeat Row 2

Continue repeating Rows 1 and 2 until you make 8 Rows.

Row 9
CH 1, 2 Clusters, skip 2, SC, skip 2, 7DC shell, 2 Clusters, join with a SlSt to the first CH.

Row 10
CH3, 2DC in the same stitch, 2 Clusters.
*We will work in the top stitches of 7DC shell now

Skip 1 stitch *not two !*, SC (in the second DC of the 7DC shell), skip 1, 4DC shell (in the fourth DC – that is the top of the 7DC shell), skip 1, SC (in the sixth DC), skip 1, 5DC shell, 1 Cluster, skip 2, SC, skip 2, 2DC in the very first stitch of the row – SlSt in the space of CH3.

Please notice that in this row we have one shell more than in any other row.

In this case we have 6 shells!

Row 11
*In this row we will make the ‘Thumb hole’.
CH1, 2 Clusters, skip 2, SC.
*This SC is made in the ‘top’ of the 5DC shell of the previous row (this same ‘top’ will be used again, in the Thumb part!).
Chain 7.

Rows 9, 10 and 11 are crocheted in GREEN
for the purpose of this pattern only

SKIP the group:  SC, one shell, and one more SC – and SC in the top of the shell after it!

Rows 9, 10 and 11 are crocheted in GREEN
for the purpose of this pattern only

(that ‘top’ will also be used in the Thumb part!).
Continue: skip 2, 5DC, 1 Cluster; join with a SlSt to the first CH.

*The first Row of the thumb will be made later in the stitches of the Row 11 that we have skipped for now.

*Few stitches after you have chained 7 chains is the good stage to try the mitten on, to make sure the thumb hole is big enough. If needed, make longer (or shorter) chain.

Row 12

CH3, 2DC in the same stitch, 2 Clusters, skip 2, SC TWO *not one! in the 7 chain space, 5DC, 1 Cluster, skip 2, SC, skip 2, 2DC in the very first stitch of the row – SlSt in the space of CH3.

*When we start crocheting the thumb, yarn will be joined between these two SCs!

Rows 12 is crocheted in PURPLE
for the purpose of this pattern only

Row 13
Repeat Row 1
*In this Row the third 5DC shell will be made in the chain space between 2SCs.

Row 14
Repeat Row 2

Continue repeating Rows 1 and 2, make 17 rows in total.
*If your palm is longer, or you want a longer mitten, add a row or two.

Row 18
CH 2, HDC around, SlSt to the first HDC
Fasten off, and wave in the end

The Thumb

Row T-1
Join yarn between 2 SCs made in the Row 12.
5DC shell in the top of the 5DC shell of the Row 10, (we mentioned this ‘top’ in the Row 11 description!), skip 2, SC in the SC of the previous row, skip 2, 4DC shell in the top of the 4DC shell of the Row 10, skip 2, SC in the SC of the previous row, 5DC shell in the next top of the 5DC shell of the Row 10, skip two, SlSt in the space between 2 SCs made in the Row 12.

Row T-2
CH3, DC 1 in the same stitch, skip 2, 3DC shell in the next SC of the previous row, skip 2, SC in the top of the 4DC shell of the previous row, skip 2, 3DC shell in the next SC of the previous row, skip 2, DC in the very first stitch of this row, SlSt in the space of CH 3.

Row T-3
CH2, HDC around, SlSt in the space of the CH 2

* if you want longer ‘thumb’ repeat row T-3

Fasten off, and weave in the end

Turn the mitten inside out and wave in the ends.

Left and right mittens are the same, so make another one

Enjoy!

Martha

With many thanks to Crochet Masters Lisa and Kinga for their support

http://www.crochet-patterns-free.com/
http://www.myhobbyiscrochet.com/

and to Ms Liz Hasler who was kind to test the pattern